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Aconcagua

Feb 2nd, 2010
by Beth Ann.
3 comments
At Plaza Francia (3400m or 14,107 ft)

Plaza Francia (4300m / 14107 ft)

Yesterday, we wrapped up our fifth solo trek to Aconcagua Provincial Park.  We didn’t attempt to ascend the tallest mountain in the western hemisphere (6962 m / 22841 ft) but instead camped for two nights at Plaza Confluencia (3400 m / 11152 ft), the first base camp on the Normal Route, and did a challenging day hike to Plaza Francia (4300 m / 14104 ft).  Marc has been inspired to return and attempt the summit in winter, 2011, (it requires 12-15 days) and I’m sure he will solicit interested parties to join him.

So, from December 29th – February 1st (that is 35 days) we spent 18 days hiking (19 for Marc) and 14 nights camping (including one night in a municipal campground).  This doesn’t include some day hikes, glacier hiking or biking to vineyards.  We have been busy! We don’t know what hiking or camping options there are in Brazil so this might have been our last camping trip, sigh.

Currently we are battling the heat in Mendoza, Argentina by drinking copious amounts of malbec, Argentina’s signature wine.  Our first day here it was 104 F, thus the escape to the mountains.  Tomorrow, Marc’s parents will be arriving in Buenos Aires so we will depart wine country on a night bus to meet them for some family fun in the capital city.  I’ve been told it is hot and humid there and I can’t tell you how excited I am that our hotel has a pool.

Posted in: Argentina, Camping.

Rain at Machu Picchu

Jan 28th, 2010
by Beth Ann.
No comments yet

At the bus station the other day we heard about the death of an Argentine tourist and guide at Machu Picchu. Today I had a chance to look it up and found out about the rains which have affected thousands (locals and tourists), blocked the railroad,  and damaged the site.  Unfortunately, the few articles I read  focused  on the tourists,  providing little information on the Inca trail support staff or residents in the surrounding communities.

Posted in: Peru.

Spanish Faux Pas

Jan 19th, 2010
by Beth Ann.
1 comment

“Bomberos” was all Tom or I had to say and we would erupt in laughter.  We returned early from our camping trip and didn’t have a place to stay in El Chalten.  Since it is peak season in Argentina making a last minute reservation is difficult.  Instead of running around town Marc and Tom found a phone and started dialing hostels.  Below is an exchange that Marc had in Spanish (I wrote it out in English for you).

Person:  Fire department.

Marc: Hello, do you have a room for three people tonight?

Person: Fire department.

Moment of realization for Marc.

Marc:  Oops.  I’m sorry.

CLICK.

Marc swears that that the guy on the phone was mumbling and didn’t hear him say fire department the first time.   The Spanish in Argentina is not as clear as in the Central Andes so I believe him but it won’t stop me from busting out in giggles every so often – bomberos! And now you are probably wondering why Marc called the fire department in the first place.  There is apparently an unfortunate misprint in the guide book, although Marc doesn’t remember the listed hostel’s name.

This afternoon we are leaving for Bariloche on a 30 hour bus ride, our longest to date.  Go ahead, laugh again at our stupidity.

On another note, we are slowly updating the blog.  Below are links to some posts we backdated.

Bolivia

Rurrenbaque

Madidi National Park

Sucre

Bolivian Haircut

Salar de Uyuni


Chile

Vicuna

Ovalle

Santiago

Valparaiso

Easter Island #1

Easter Island #2

Villarrica

Posted in: Argentina, Spanish.

El Chalten Preview

Jan 17th, 2010
by Beth Ann.
3 comments

Okay.  We know we are way behind in our posts (5 weeks or so) so we are offering you a preview of our latest adventure to Las Glaciares National Park near El Chalten, Argentina.  Las Glaciares is known for its two often-photographed summits – Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy.  Marc’s friend Tom came out for a visit and we spent the last week camping and hiking in the park.

The El Chalten area is not known for its balmy weather.  On our first day out it was windy, cold, rainy, snowy and sunny! Actually, the wind in certain areas could knock you down.  Needless to say, hiking was a bit challenging.  You might think that I am exaggerating but below is a video of Tom attempting to walk near Lago Toro.  He (and Marc) didn’t make it very far.


Stayed tuned for more videos of Tom living out his Bear Grylls fantasies… Tom jumping a crevasse, Tom navigating a glacier, etc.


On a scheduled “rest day” Marc and Tom decided to go ice climbing.  They spent some time on Glacier Torre walking in crampons and learning how to climb a wall of ice. When we have a chance we will try and rotate the video.  In the meantime just turn your head or the screen.



On the way to the glacier the ice climbing group crossed a river using a system known as a Tyrolean traverse.  It’s Marc’s turn!

Posted in: Argentina, Camping.

Ushuaia

Jan 5th, 2010
by Beth Ann.
1 comment
IMG_8515

On the way to Ushuaia

Country #5 – Argentina

Greetings from Tierra del Fuego, Land of Fire, Bottom of the World, and 18+ hours of summer sunlight.  Ushuaia is the southern most point on our trip but not the farthest south one can travel in South America, believe it or not.  It’s possible (though expensive) to boat/fly over to Isla Navarino, Chile, and on to Cape Horn.  We arrived here after a 10.5 hour bus trip from Punta Arenas, Chile, and are staying in our first dorm room (in a youth hostel) thus far. From our hostel’s common room, we can see Fuegian peaks tumbling down to the Beagle Channel, and across to Isla Navarino. Incredible to think that Charles Darwin sailed through this channel on the Beagle in 1833!

This week, we’re doing a 3-day trek in Tierra del Fuego National Park.  On January 10 we will head north to El Calafate and more trekking in Las Glaciares National Park. Tomorrow we might take a boat ride across the Beagle Channel to see some lobos marinos (sea lions).

Lodging: Torre al Sur

Posted in: Argentina.

Food Diary: Chile

Jan 4th, 2010
by Marc.
No comments yet

 

Chilean wine from the Maule Valley

Chilean wine from the Maule Valley

Upon entering Chile we quickly realized that food was much more expensive than in the Central Andes. While we did treat ourselves to a few restaurant meals, we spent most of our food dollars at grocery stores. Greasy spoon type restaurants, known as fuentes de soda (“soda fountains”), were popular in most cities. As for street food, it turns out Chileans love the completo, a hot dog smothered in guacamole, mayonaise, and mustard. Of course, delicious empanadas were also widely available. Finally, we imbibed copious amounts of relatively inexpensive, high quality Chilean red wine.


Posted in: Chile, Food.

Patagonia

Dec 28th, 2009
by Beth Ann.
2 comments

This afternoon after a spectacular 3 day ferry ride down the southern coast of Chile, we arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile.  We spent 2 hours running around town gathering  gear – waterproof pants, a stove, fuel, bus tickets, money and food – so we could leave tomorrow to hike the ¨W¨ trek in Torres del Paine.  Wish us luck on our first solo multi-day backpacking trip!

Posted in: Chile.

Chiloe

Dec 23rd, 2009
by Marc.
No comments yet

Boat at Chonchi harbor

Boat at Chonchi harbor

Monday, December 21, 2009

 

The archipelago of Chiloe consists of a main island and numerous islets, covered with rolling hills, rural fields, and forest. It has two main towns, Ancud and Castro. We made our way to Castro from Puerto Montt by bus, crossing the channel on a vehicle ferry. From the ferry we saw sea lions and penguins.

 

Chiloe is famous for its legends and mythology, apparently, although we didn’t really notice. It’s also known for its fascinating wooden churches, based on Jesuit designs. In Castro we found a family-run hospedaje, then hit the supermarket and took a quick stroll around the Plaza de Armas, where we ducked into the wooden cathedral (built in 1906). Our cozy room had a great view of the port, the harbor, and peninsula. At dinner, we shared the kitchen with the family that owned the hospedaje, which proved to be slightly awkward.

 

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

 

It rained most of the day on Tuesday, so we didn’t venture very far. We ate a leisurely breakfast, read, did some blogging, and watched a few movies – Dirty Dancing, Elizabeth, and The Fast and the Furious.

 

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

 

On Wednesday we headed to the fishing village of Chonchi, south of Castro. In Chonchi we checked out the cathedral (built in 1880), then strolled around the harbor to admire the fishing boats. The island of Lemuy sits across the bay from Chonchi, but it turns out the ferry actually leaves from Puerto Huicha, 4 km south of Chonchi. For lunch we had good seafood at La Quila restaurant. Returning to Castro, we got off the bus early to check out several areas of palafitos – restaurants and houses built on stilts above the water. Before dinner, we walked to the mirador for a beautiful view of the town.

Lodging: Hostal Bellavista

Posted in: Chile.

Heurquehue National Park

Dec 20th, 2009
by Marc.
No comments yet

Araucania trees

Araucaria trees

After the thrilling ascent of Vulcan Villarrica, we opted for a more leisurely day hike at Huerquehue National Park. This park encompasses approximately twenty lakes and many araucaria trees. Once again we caught an early combi to Pucon, then boarded another combi bound for the park. As we waited to depart, more and more tourists arrived until the bus was packed to the gills, but luckily a new bus soon arrived. On the way to the park our bus sustained a flat tire which was quickly replaced by the driver with help from some passengers.

 

Upon arriving, we set out on what I have dubbed the Three Lakes hike, although I’m sure it has another name. The friendly park ranger estimated seven hours for the hike, although we finished it in five. On the way to the lakes, we got stuck behind a group of Israeli kids who, for some unknown reason, enjoyed yelling into walkie-talkies to their compatriots further back along the trail. This rather annoying behavior did not contribute to our desired serenity level (nor that of any of the other hikers, I’m sure), and we were eventually able to lose them by visiting two waterfall overlooks along the way. Eventually we reached the first lake, Lago Chico. From there we visited Lago Toro and Lago Verde, before looping back to the main trail. We finished the hike pretty early, but didn’t have enough time to start another, so we relaxed a bit at the larger Lago Tinguilco before catching the combi back to Pucon.

 

In the evening, we enjoyed another lively dinner in the kitchen of La Torre Suiza. We loved that place!

Posted in: Argentina.

Random Observation: Toilet Paper

Dec 20th, 2009
by Beth Ann.
2 comments
IA common sign found in the bathroom

A common sign found in the bathroom

How often do you think about toilet paper? My guess is probably rarely unless you are cursing the person before you who used the last sheet and didn’t replace the roll.  In South America, we think about it multiple times a day.

First, you won’t find toilet paper in every bathroom (museums and tourist  restaurants appear to the exception). To avoid being stranded without it, we buy our own and stash some sheets in my purse and our pockets.

Second, if toilet paper is provided you might not find it in the usual spots.  For example, in Chilean bus stations the toilet paper roll is at the bathroom’s entrance not in the individual stalls.  In Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia the attendant hands you a few sheets (after paying of course).

Third, you can’t flush the toilet paper.  I still don’t understand why (something to do with antiquated plumbing)  so one must place the used toilet paper  in the trash can next to the toilet, which if not emptied frequently enough can create some unpleasant aromas.

Posted in: Lessons Learned.

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